Growing Blackberries in the UK: A Practical Guide for Home Gardeners
Discover how to grow blackberries in the UK with this practical guide. Learn the best varieties, how to prune and train blackberry canes, and avoid common pests and diseases.
Why Grow Blackberries at Home?
Blackberries often get overlooked in the home garden — maybe because they’re so common in hedgerows. But cultivated blackberries are an entirely different experience: larger, sweeter, thornless and highly productive.
I started growing blackberries after realising how short the blackberry picking season was in the wild — and how many of those berries were too close to the road, or already picked by the birds. Growing my own turned out to be surprisingly easy, and the harvest was enormous!
Here’s what makes blackberries a great addition to a UK fruit garden:
• Generous yields – a single cane can produce kilos of fruit, perfect for freezing, baking into pies and tarts or jam-making.
• Late season harvest – most varieties fruit in August and September, extending the berry season after your raspberries finish.
• Low maintenance – some newer types are thornless and self-supporting, so there’s no battling with brambles or fiddly trellising.
• Great for small spaces – blackberries are also ideal for training along a fence or wall, they take up very little ground space.
They're particularly well suited to the British climate, and once established, blackberries need very little pampering to thrive.
When and How to Plant Blackberries
Blackberries are best planted between November and March, while dormant, but you can plant container-grown specimens at any time (just keep them watered in summer).
Site Conditions
Soil: Moist, fertile, and well-drained. Avoid heavy clay.
Position: Full sun or light shade — the more sun, the sweeter the berries
Spacing: Leave at least 2–3m between plants. They need room to spread.
Location: avoid planting where raspberries and other cane fruits have recently grown, as the soil might harbour pests and diseases
How to Start Growing Blackberries
The easiest way to grow blackberries in the UK is to buy a young plant or bare-root cane from a reputable nursery rather than trying to grow from seed. Seed-grown plants can take two to three years to bear fruit and often produce weaker, variable crops. In contrast, nursery plants are already true to type, disease-free, and ready to establish. Choose a named thornless variety (see list below) for reliable yields. As mentioned above, November to March is the best time to plant bare-root canes, though container-grown plants can be planted at any time of year, provided you keep them well watered during dry spells.
To plant, dig a hole about 45–60 cm wide and deep enough to comfortably spread the roots, improving the soil with compost or well-rotted manure. Place the plant so that the crown sits level with the soil, firm gently, water thoroughly, and finish with a 5–8 cm layer of mulch to retain moisture. They’ll need strong support, such as a fence with horizontal wires or a fruit cage frame, to keep the canes upright and easy to manage.
Container-grown blackberries do very well on patios and small plots if you give them room (more on this below). Use a large pot at least 45 cm wide and deep filled with peat-free multipurpose compost mixed with 10–20% grit or perlite for drainage. Keep the compost evenly moist - never waterlogged - and feed every two to three weeks from spring to late summer with a balanced liquid fertiliser. Tie in new canes to a simple bamboo frame or obelisk as they grow. With good care, plants will usually produce their first berries the following summer, with yields increasing as the canes mature.
If you already have an established blackberry, you can easily propagate new plants by bending a flexible cane tip down to the soil and pegging it firmly in place. This “tip layering” method will root within four to eight weeks, giving you a ready-made young plant by the following spring. In winter, you can also lift and replant suckers that appear near the base of the parent plant. Both methods create strong, identical plants much faster than growing from seed and are ideal for expanding your berry patch with minimal effort.
Best Blackberry Varieties for UK Gardens
There are loads of blackberry cultivars out there — some wild, some bred for gardens, and many designed to be thornless, sweet, or compact. Here are a few standout varieties commonly available in the UK:
|
Variety |
Thornless? |
Fruiting Period |
Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
|
Loch Ness |
Yes |
August–September |
Heavy crops, compact habit, good flavour |
|
Loch Tay |
Yes |
August |
Early cropping, slightly sweeter than Loch Ness |
|
Chester |
Yes |
Late August–Oct |
Very large fruit, good disease resistance |
|
Oregon Thornless |
Yes |
Mid–Late Summer |
Distinctive lobed leaves, good for training |
|
Bedford Giant |
No |
Mid–Late Summer |
Very vigorous, traditional variety, big thorns |
For beginners, Loch Ness is a good choice — it’s widely available, virtually maintenance-free and very productive.
Training and Supporting Blackberry Canes
Unlike raspberries, many traditional blackberry varieties don’t grow upright. They produce long, arching canes that need to be trained onto wires, trellises or frames. Left unsupported, they’ll sprawl — and picking becomes a prickly mess!
Training Tips:
• Install horizontal wires (45cm apart) along a wall or fence
• Train new canes in one direction and old fruiting canes in the other. This helps with pruning later
• Tie in canes loosely using soft twine as they grow
Compact varieties like Loch Tay don’t sprawl as much but still benefit from support. Alternatively, you could go for something like Black Cascade, which is a trailing, thornless blackberry that has compact, arching canes — perfect for containers and hanging baskets in UK gardens.
Pruning Blackberries: A Seasonal Approach
Blackberries fruit on two-year-old canes (like summer raspberries), so correct pruning is essential for a reliable crop.
Year-by-Year Blackberry Pruning:
• First year: Let new canes grow and tie them in
• Second year: Those canes will fruit; after harvest, cut them to the ground
• Meanwhile, new canes will emerge to replace them — tie these in as your crop for the next season
Make pruning part of your autumn garden tidy-up. It only takes a few minutes once you get the hang of it.
Feeding and Watering Blackberries
Once established, blackberry plants are fairly drought tolerant — but during extended dry spells or when fruit is developing, a bit of extra care really pays off. In early spring, apply a general-purpose fertiliser or a generous layer of well-rotted compost around the base of each plant to give them a nutrient boost ahead of the growing season. As summer arrives and the berries begin to form, it’s important to water regularly, especially if rainfall is scarce. Consistent watering helps ensure the fruit reaches its full size and flavour. Adding a thick mulch — such as bark chips, straw, or compost — not only retains moisture but also suppresses weeds and improves soil health. Be careful not to go overboard with nitrogen-rich feeds, though: too much nitrogen encourages lush green growth at the expense of fruit production, leaving you with lots of leaves and very few berries.
Common Problems with Blackberries and How to Avoid Them
Although blackberries are pretty tough, they’re not immune to trouble. All of the below can limit or potentially ruin your harvest.
|
Problem |
Symptoms |
Solutions |
|
Bird damage |
Ripe fruit disappearing |
Bird netting or netted fruit cages |
|
Botrytis (grey mould) |
Fuzzy grey fungus on fruit |
Improve airflow, avoid overhead watering |
|
Cane spot |
Purple marks on canes |
Cut out infected growth, improve hygiene |
|
Aphids |
Curled leaves, sticky residue |
Use insecticidal soap or encourage ladybirds |
|
Suckers |
New shoots from roots far away |
Cut back below soil line regularly |
Botrytis can be a particular problem in wet or overcrowded conditions. It causes the fruit to develop a soft, mushy texture and a fuzzy grey mould — it ruins berries quickly and cannot be reversed once it takes hold. Affected fruit should be removed and discarded (not composted), and steps should be taken to improve air circulation and reduce humidity. While there’s no cure, pruning, good spacing, and watering at the base can prevent future outbreaks.
Cane spot is another fungal disease, visible as purple marks on the stems. Left unchecked, it can weaken the canes and reduce fruiting. Although it doesn’t usually affect the fruit directly, it lowers plant vigour and yield. Once visible, infected canes should be pruned out to prevent further spread — but again, prevention through good hygiene and airflow is key.
Aphids are small sap-sucking insects that cluster on young shoots and the undersides of leaves, causing leaf curl and leaving behind sticky honeydew. This can attract sooty mould and stunt growth. While you can’t always prevent aphids entirely, fine insect mesh can reduce their numbers significantly, and this might be a considertion if you've suffered from aphid attacks in the past. Encouraging predators like ladybirds also helps keep populations under control.
Finally, be aware of suckers — new shoots that emerge from the root system well away from the main plant. These can be vigorous and energy-draining, so cut them back below soil level to keep the plant’s focus on fruiting.
What Eats Blackberries? Common Garden Pests (and How to Stop Them)
In my first year growing blackberries, I lost nearly half the crop to birds. The berries would vanish overnight or turn up half-pecked. So if you're wondering what eats blackberries — the answer is: plenty of things.
The Usual Suspects:
Birds – especially pigeons and blackbirds but also thrushes; they'll strip ripe fruit fast
Wasps – love overripe berries, especially in warm summers
Mice and voles – can nibble at low-hanging fruit or climb plants at night, eating a significant portion of the crop in one sitting
Deer and rabbits – more likely to go for young shoots or leaves, but can damage the plant structure
Slugs and snails – occasionally chew young canes or newly planted roots
How to Protect Your Blackberries:
Use netted fruit covers or pop-up crop cages, especially once berries start to colour
Drape bird netting (20mm diameter mesh) over plant supports to keep birds out
Remove fallen and overripe fruit to deter wasps, squirrels and rodents
Consider taller raised beds, large planters or containers if you have a lot of wildlife traffic
Install a mulch barrier or copper tape if slugs are an issue at the base
Tip: Our Pop Up Crop Cage is absolutely ideal for smaller blackberry patches! They erect in seconds for instant fruit protection, the 4mm diameter mesh stops birds, rodents and insects, while the large zipped door means they can be used early in the season - simply close the door after pollination and before fruiting. Our 1.85m tall fruit cage is the ideal height for blackberries, raspberries and other tall fruit bushes. Available in 1m wide and 1.25m wide options.
Harvesting and Storing Blackberries
Blackberries ripen gradually over several weeks — usually from late July through to September in the UK, depending on the variety and your location. This extended harvest window means you can enjoy multiple pickings from the same plant. But timing is everything — pick too early and you’ll be disappointed; wait too long and the birds will get there first.
You’ll know they’re ready when:
• The berry is deep black and comes away from the stem easily - If you need to tug or twist hard, it’s not ripe yet. A ripe berry should detach with a gentle pull, leaving the central plug behind on the plant.
• They feel soft but not mushy - A ripe blackberry should have a bit of give when squeezed, but not collapse. Overripe berries go mushy fast and may already be fermenting.
• Taste is sweet with a hint of tartness - The flavour should be rich and well-balanced — still slightly tangy, but without the sharp sourness of underripe berries.
• The berry has a dull, matte finish rather than a shiny one - Slightly dull skin is often a sign of peak ripeness, while shiny berries are usually underripe and may still be firm and sour.
• You see blackberries dropping off the plant or being pecked by birds - Falling fruit or bird interest often signals peak ripeness — get in there quickly before they spoil or disappear.
Once picked, blackberries perish quickly, especially in warm weather. Store them unwashed in the fridge in a shallow container lined with kitchen paper, and use within 2–3 days. Only wash them right before eating, as excess moisture shortens their shelf life.
They freeze beautifully — just hull them, spread on a tray to freeze individually, and then bag them up. Use frozen berries in smoothies, pies, crumbles, or jam throughout the year. You can also cook them down with sugar and lemon to make a quick compote or syrup for pancakes, ice cream, or yogurt.
Can I Grow Blackberries in Pots?
Yes — especially dwarf or thornless types. In summary, you’ll need:
• A container at least 45cm wide and deep
• A strong support or obelisk
• Plenty of water and good compost
Keep an eye on pot-grown blackberries in summer — they dry out quickly and need feeding every few weeks.
FAQs: Growing Blackberries in the UK
Do blackberries need full sun?
They do best in full sun but will still crop in part shade — just expect slightly lower yields and less sweetness.
Will blackberries take over my garden?
Some older varieties like Bedford Giant are extremely vigorous. Choose newer, compact cultivars for smaller spaces, and prune regularly.
How long do blackberry plants live?
A well-maintained plant will stay productive for 15 years or more.
Can I grow blackberries from cuttings?
Yes. They root easily from tip layering (where the tip of a cane touches the ground), or from hardwood cuttings in winter.
Final Thoughts: Should You Grow Blackberries?
If you’ve got a sunny fence, wall, or even a large pot, you’ve got space for a blackberry plant. They’re generous, easy-going, and late-fruiting — a great follow-up to summer raspberries or strawberries.
And once you’ve tasted a ripe, homegrown blackberry from your own garden, you’ll never go back to wild picking.
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